The Loop Trilogy – Part 3: Return of the Communal Dining

All good things have to come to an end… On 22 - 29 February, a high level Fieldbase delegation - consisting of Rhys, Simon, and me (Christiane) - visited three project groups to get first hand insights into how they are doing and what they do (à THE LOOP).

After experiencing Charlie 2's busy village life and Echo 4’s star-spangled basher tranquility in Tamil Nadu, we headed back to Karnataka to pay a visit to our Charlie 1 community project in Ghandenahalli. In this rural village of 7000 inhabitants, the venturers and PMs set up camp in the local primary school, wandering off to build eco-sanitation toilets during school hours. Here some firsthand impressions of PM and Project Medic Cate with some help of venturer Natalia Robinson:

The Charlies

Village life in Ghandenahalli is – well, what can I say – a very special experience. To understand and appreciate it, you really need to be here. No words could ever encapsulate the smells, noises, and atmosphere. The conversations, the “ringing” in their words - all I can think about is, how I would love to understand what they are saying. And then, on the other hand, how I am quite content to listen to these magical expressions in total ignorance. Their hospitality is astonishing and even the poorest of the poor invite us into their homes for food constantly. Their focus on education and religion is inspiring. When a small village boy was asked whether he had a good or a bad day at school, he seemed totally bewildered, as if to wonder “How could one have a bad day at school?” 
Every morning crows and cockerels announce the arrival of the sun, interrupting the noise of the ceaseless prayers through the best damn PA system I have ever heard. Sometimes they play prayers over the top of each other resulting in an interesting mix (well, it sounds much better than Coldplay anyway).
The “watering holes” are not what we Westerners class as a watering hole; they are exactly what it says on the tin. The children make pumping the water look like fun, but after two jerrycans, I need a nap. Except a nap would be a deflating roll mat on the concrete floor.

Showering in a urinal is not that rank when your view is the glowing orange sun setting for the evening while you wash the cement from your body and hope the local children are not walking on the neighbouring wall trying to catch a glimpse of those weird white people. When walking through the village the shouts of the children’s “Hi, hi!” overwhelm you like a tsunami and their little bright faces just want to know your name and tell you theirs. And your father's. And your mother's. And your sister's.

Headmaster bedroom

Sunset shower

All is sweet in Gandanhalli, especially the food. Sitting in front of a banana leaf on the school’s floor (cross-legged - a challenge for the boys) is my highlight and with twenty strong, it’s quite a banquet. Instead of watching some mind-numbing TV-show whilst eating, your senses are caught up in the exciting variety of food that a Ghandenahalli family brings twice daily. The banana leaves turn into a multi/coloured canvas that soon disappears quickly with multiple right-handed movements, while the left is not invited to these occasions. It is associated with another special, personal activity; I´ll let your imagination work that one out.

Eco-plates

Day off / sports: Rafting refreshment

Day off / culture: Tibetian temple

“Back to basics” is an adequate description of Indian worksites. Sometimes our main task seems to be staying as far away as possible from the scaffolding used by the masons, erected with only coconut rope and bamboo. The “electricity man” climbs up the telegraph pole with a dhoti on and a spanner in his mouth, bear footed, to connect us to the current. As he is one twist of the wire from his death, my heart is going faster than the current and he climbs down the pole only to look at us and say the national phrase “No problem!” Being a nurse with a very, very strong attachment to the NMC Code of Conduct, you can imagine my constant alertness and warnings, which the locals choose to politely ignore. Well that’s my take on Ghandenahalli village so far. I am sure there are lots more, but for now it is home and what an interesting home it is! 

And now: Messages written whilst being surrounded by 1000 prying village kids:

From Caspar

From Flora

From Marjolein

From Natalia

Also from Natalia

From Venetia

From Will

A big thank you to all the projects for their warm welcomes and to our driver Prashant for his sixth sense for elephants. And thanks to the rest of the loop team for all the shared road snacks, shared tea mugs, and shared Somniloquy conversations.