Trekking in Kerala with Tango 3

Pete, one of our logistic coordinators, was allowed out of the store room to spend a 5 days trekking with Tango 3 as a project manager. Here he gives the inside story:

The trekkers set off soon after 0600 on the morning of the 11th July on a small hired bus, excited and (a tiny bit) apprehensive as to what might enfold before them. They needn't worry. The scenery both on the journey through Tamil Nadu and down into Kerala was stunning. Verdant forests and tea plantations lined some of the route as the bus journeyed higher and higher. One road had 27 hairpin bends to descend, monkeys watching carefully from the road edge for any dropped edible items, our coach driver tooting merrily at each of the bends. Soon after this long downhill, the team experienced an Indian breakfast eaten off bright green banana leaves.

 Carbo-loading - Scott, Louise, Rachel and Daniel

All were eager to get started on their 200 kilometre trek through the fantastic region of the Western Ghats in southern Kerala. The horseshoe route took in the second highest peak in southern India, over 2,650 metres above sea level. Due to the somewhat chaotic traffic, consisting of a mixture of rickshaws, lorries, cows, cars, people, bicycles, goats, buses and motorbikes (in no particular order), it is best to avoid night travel on the roads. Thus we stopped at a location in Tamil Nadu just after a wildlife conservation park, to stay the night in a large dormitory. There was a reasonably tasty curry served, though a few people had to wait for 20 minutes as the hotel restaurant staff managed to lose a third of the order at the first attempt!!

There was a brief sleep between 2200 and midnight, whereupon a reasonable number of trekkers crowded into the hotel lobby with the hotel night porters to watch the World Cup final of Spain vs Holland. Scott, Daniel, Will watched most of the game, before deciding to quit before the match ended. Gemma, Boas and Stephen managed to stay awake until the end along with myself. We were all praying that it didn't go to extra time so that we could get some extra shut eye before morning. Unfortunately it did go to Extra Time. Boas was a teeny bit sad to see his Dutch national side beaten in the final, the third time that they have fallen short at the final hurdle.

Will, Daniel, Mary and Helen enjoy Silver Spoon Breakfast.

Nick with Eldo (wearing a scarf as it was only 25 degrees), and Sheeko, our two trek guides.

The next morning we were all up sharply and ready for the off soon after 0700. We stopped at the Silver Spoon restaurant for breakfast, and it was at this location that we met our two trekking guides, Eldo and Chico. I think it was Sheeko, but Chico Time sounds far better. Rachel and Gemma had full breakfasts, probably in order to stock up energy before the trek.

Comms Check - Stephen, Daniel, Vijay and Helen.

The bus pulled up in a stunning location, the sun a golden ball high in the sky, the breeze light and fluffy. A quick comms check back to Field Base to report that we were ready to roll, and the group loaded up their rucksacks, ready for the approximate 5 kilometre trek. The route wound up a twisting trail to our nightly stopping point. The set off time was 1155, almost the hottest time of the day.

Helen and Will resting before the first steps on the 200km trek

Taylor ready and raring to head off on Trek Day One.

On the way up the climb, we passed a tea plantation. As we were admiring the scenery, the local ladies that pick the new shoots appeared. They only collect leaves that have 4 or 5 days growth, and place them in bags that they have over their shoulders, or in some cases hooked around their heads, like hair bands. Helen, Stephen, Louise and Vijay were given a brief lesson in becoming a tea-leaf picker, and all had a go at this leaf plucking role. We found out that the ladies earn approximately 150 rupees for a six hour day. This is approximately  2 pounds 50 pence per day. Next time you have a cup of tea, think a moment, as these lush plantations may be where the PG Tips were plucked from!

Louise picking tea while Gemma and Daniel take the lazy option of watching!

After 3 and a half hours, and a significant number of stops, we arrived at our nightly stop. This was at just over 2,000 metres, and in the evening it was much cooler than we were used to. The tents were put up, and a fire built and lit, and an enjoyable evening was had as we played a game called "Two Truths and a Lie". Will went almost last in this game, as he struggled to come up with anything approaching a convincing lie!! Frogs in a pond made a colossal racket all through the night. Don't they sleep too??

The next morning was the 21 kilometre trek (13 miles), that skirted up the second highest mountain. The highest mountain was actually near by too, and was pointed out to us - it just didn't sit favourably on the trek route, and was also a more awkward climb. I'm not complaining though, as the peak we climbed was tiring ENUFF.

Taylor and Mary leading the way

Stephen leads the remainder; Scott still wrestling with choosing the correct direction!  

We managed to leave for the trek at about 0740, as the place we stayed at served a large breakfast at 0700 which we had not been expecting. This meant that our departing time of 0700 was missed by a considerable margin. It was a strange weather day, as the sun was often hidden behind cotton wool clouds, against a deep blue sky. Some beautiful plants and mountain flowers were seen en route, along with yellow striped frogs, and the occasional leech. Fortunately we had leech socks or gators. Low down in the valleys below, we could see the white blanket oozing between valleys, and as the cloud rose, we actually had to walk in mist at times. This was good though, as it meant we were sheltered from the heat, and were not getting saturated in monsoon downpours either. RESULT!

Boas being cool, whilst Will and Stephen take in the breathtaking views

Nick doing his best Rambo Impression!

We passed a building at almost 1100, where another previous Tango group from last year had written the time that they were there as 0639. It seemed that we'd maybe had too long a lie in. After a large number of ups (and a few slight downs) we eventually reached the highest point for our trek.

 Anyone For Extra Sun Screen ?

                                        

It was a great surprise when one of the guides pulled a great big rabbit out of his rucksack, that Paul Daniels would have been proud of. A set of cardboard plates, a huge tureen filled with HOT vegetable curry, and a load of fresh chapattis. We quickly did our own illusion, making the curry disappear in a flash by wolfing it down. SCRUMMY.                                                        

Chapatis and Curry On Top Of The World

After a well deserved rest, we had to continue. In the location where we were trekking, the sunset races in at approximately 1900, and the afternoon was getting on. A few people had struggled a little bit with the weight of their packs, and certain items were dispersed between other team members in order to help lighten their loads. It was a real team effort.

After the highest mountain, came the steepest descent. It seemed to be maybe 45 degrees, but even if it was only 30 degrees, it plunged down for maybe a kilometre. Heaven knows how we'd have coped if it had been raining, as it would have made it like a muddy toboggan ride! Soon after this we saw signs of elephants. It was actually their dung - think the triceratops in Jurassic Park - just slightly less volume! Once down this incline, we then had to skirt a single file trail through bamboo. Finally there were two pyramid shape mountains that appeared, and the guides informed us that we were almost there. We completed the trek by descending through the highest tea plantation in the Kerala region. Exhausted we rounded a bend to see the waiting jeeps. A bumpy 12 kilometre ride back, and we arrived at the new campsite, and it was dark in the space of 5 minutes. Putting tents up in the dark can be FUN.

Down Hill Through The Clouds

Mary and Will rest briefly while the rest of the team saddle up their rucksacks.

Words fail to describe the beauty of the views - So I'm Not Gonna Try!

A well deserved hot meal, cooked on Trangia stoves, and we were all ready for bed. The next day was a survival day and we built Basha Beds. These consist of two A-Frame tripods, and a stretcher type bed, laying across it. In the end there were only 6 people that wanted to sleep in them. Helen and Mary took two of these. Myself, Will, Daniel and Boas took the other four. Due to a monumental design flaw by me, (I made one A-Frame with 6 foot poles, and the other with 8 foot poles), I managed to have an arctic squall through my Basha bed for the whole night. Thick icicles hung down from the tarpaulin in the morning, and from my frosty toes! Metaphorically speaking. 

The next morning we left camp, and headed on another 4 kilometre trek, getting lower all the time. The new campsite was approached soon after a river crossing, where the slow flowing river was a few feet deep, and slimy mud footing.

Rachel Tiptoes Through The River.

The lake was a picture, and as we had arrived before midday, we were able to take a lovely swim in the relatively warm waters. In the evening the trek guides lit an 'elephant' fire, which is to ward off elephants should any approach. This was evidently a well used trail, but we failed to see any elephants, though the following morning three did pass, but we were out building rafts from rubber tyres and bamboo poles at the time! 

 Scott Saunters The Stream...

 Gemma Crosses The Red Sea

Helen's Boots Hitch A Lift

Jenny and Marie arrived the next morning, and they brought the rain with them - Loads Of It !!!

The brief walk up the road passed the most amazing tree house !!!

Swiss Family Robinson Look On Enviously!

The rafting was delayed by 2 hours until it subsided from monsoon status to light downpour! We had 8 people per raft, and were supervised by Aldo who travelled in an orange kayak maintained a safe distance, to stop us splashing him with our oars.

                                               Raleigh Rafting In Ridiculous Rain !!

After the rafting, Boas, Helen and Scott helped make the fire, and a large number of us took it in turns to chop firewood for the evening ahead using a machete. We received a message from field base that Mary had achieved a First Class degree, and held a party for her under a tarpaulin, dancing in the mud and the intermittent rain. The firewood just held out sufficiently for the evening and we stayed up until almost 2200. Flashing head torches, and "dry ice smoke from the fire" when the wind changed direction created a memorable evening of discotheque JOLLIMENT!

D.I.S.C.O.

D.I.S.C.O.

D.I.S.C.O.

D.I.S.C.O.

D.I.S.K.O.

D.I.S.K.O.T.E.K.

Plus The Crazy Bonfire Smoke Machine!!! 

Will Panning For Gold!

Sadly, someone decided that the next day we had to get up at 0430 (to leave by 0630) as it was a 25 kilometre trek. Camp was packed away, and I had to wave goodbye to Tango 3. I'd really had a great time, and was very sad to leave. They are of course continuing on the 200 kilometre challenge. They have a lot of stamina, and I for one, am sure that the team are going to complete the Western Ghats trek with great success, come rain or shine - or monsoon !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.